San Sebastian - Day 2

 Our second day in San Sebastián started as before, a light breakfast of coffee and a croissant at what had become our favourite bar nearby. By this time I'd managed to be able to order the basics in Spanish so we could fit in to the local community without too much difficulty; we enjoyed experiencing everyday life there.

We wanted to go to the top of Monte Igueldo, for the view rather than the amusement park. It took two bus rides to get there, one to the Boulevard and another to the Funicular station at the far end of the bay. Like all buses it didn't take the direct route but wound through pretty houses, a smattering of shops, restaurants and occasional glimpses of the golden sands and deep blue sea.

We couldn't face the climb on foot so we had to quell fears of funicular railways that had been prompted by the recent Lisbon disaster. The old railway track and carriages were built in 1912 but in remarkably good, original, condition. Once full with about 40 passengers, the little wooden carriage climbed the 151 metres to the summit effortlessly on a single track with a crossing place for the other car in the middle. 

From the top the view of Kontxa Bay is spectacular, the curving beach and the two islands that protect it are laid out below, just like a map. It was perfect weather so the visibility was excellent, right out to the mountains in the background. At mid morning we were amazed to find the cafe/bar almost deserted so took advantage of that to have a drink whilst we soaked up the surrounding view.

With a temperature of about 24 degrees it was just the weather for the walk around the bay back to the Old Town and another helping of Pintxos for lunch. The beach is chic, well managed, with fine facilities for the well heeled bathers that spend their holidays there. Plenty of parasols, recliners and little changing tents made out of blue and white striped material. The buildings and lamp standards dating back at least a hundred years were shamelessly ornate giving the whole area a stylish air. We envied those relaxing on the sun on the beach wishing we'd brought our swimwear.

We enjoyed a lunch every bit as good as the day before sitting out on the Boulevard to watch the world go by over a coffee and attempt to sketch what we saw. The Boulevard is a wide, tree lined street with buss stops along its length a band stand at one end. It was where everyone relaxed for a while amongst the foliage on the many seats or maybe just waited for the net bus. The surrounding buildings gave it a charm of it's own, timeless and enduring.

Although it goes against our principles we returned to the same restaurant as earlier because it was so good and the alternatives less attractive. We came close to going to a gourmet restaurant but were put off by the number of Americans also booked in. Unfortunately the restaurant the two ladies had recommended that, reputedly, had the best grilled fish was closed.